Chapter 2 - Research
When writing this eBook I found out that this was one of the more difficult chapters to construct. It’s hard enough with the technical details of getting MacOS up and running with the different components and parts, but the easy part about that is that the process itself is mostly straightforward. With suggesting parts to buy, I had to consider the needs of anyone that may be interested. Would they be using an existing machine? Do everyday consumers and computer hobbyists know budget tricks and tips? Are people planning on using their own machine and are they going to upgrade parts? Those are just some of the questions I had to think about so that I can cover all my bases. In this chapter I’ll breakdown the parts that I feel matter the most when getting a Hackintosh up and running. In an attempt to simplify the advice; I’ll break things down by parts, and with each part I’ll go into more details for a desktop and laptop, along with new vs used. But again, it also comes down to your own needs. First off, let’s cover what parts you may already have if you’re using an existing machine.
You can use the links directly below to jump to each section
You can use the links directly below to jump to each section
Step 1 - Identifying Your Processor (Existing PCs)
On a Windows computer, this is done easily. With Windows 7 click on Start (Windows icon in lower left hand corner), Control Panel, then click on System. In the center section under System it will show the processor and speed.
Under Windows 10 the process is the almost the same. Click on the Windows icon in the lower left corner, then the gear icon.
Under Windows 10 the process is the almost the same. Click on the Windows icon in the lower left corner, then the gear icon.
From there Click system:
...and it will show the specs of your machine (click to enlarge). In this screenshot, it shows my system having an AMD Ryzen 2600 CPU at 3.40 GHz, and having 16 GB of memory (RAM).
In either case, your processor shown should be an Intel Core2Duo or higher. The next step up is Core2Quad, then the i-series which (from lowest to highest) consists of an i3, i5, and i7. Newer gaming computers have i9 processors which are also fully compatible.
In either case, your processor shown should be an Intel Core2Duo or higher. The next step up is Core2Quad, then the i-series which (from lowest to highest) consists of an i3, i5, and i7. Newer gaming computers have i9 processors which are also fully compatible.
Now the i-series of processors have different generations as indicated by he number after the i3/i5/i7. Intel numbered the generation of processor by the number of digits after the series and the digit in the thousands place. To demonstrate I’ll show the i3-560 and the i3-2105, and the i3-3220.
With the i3-560, the three digits (560) indicate that it’s a first generation i-series processor. The first generation of the i-series processors includes the i5 and i7 and none of these had no on-board graphics. The i3-2105 is from the second generation as noted by the “2” in “2105”. Look at the column from the Wikipedia screenshot under GPU model (graphics processing unit), and you’ll notice that the i3-2105 has HD Graphics 3000, a necessity for Hackintosh on-board graphics.
The same table shows other processors with faster speeds with HD 3000 and HD 2000 graphics, but the minimum graphics set for using a Hackintosh is HD 3000. Now let’s look at the last one, the i3-3220.
The “3” in “3220” indicated that this is a third generation processor. The remaining processors in the i5, i7, and i9 series follow the same numbering convention, at least for now.
The processors in each generation have a name to them which will be important later. It's not required to memorize them, only the name for which your generation of CPU belongs to. In the following list, "XXX" represents the three-digit number after i3, i5, and i7. i( Processors didn't appear until much later and have four digits after them.
XXX. 1st Generation - Clarkdale
2XXX 2nd Generation - Sandy Bridge
3XXX 3rd Generation - Ivy Bridge
4XXX 4th Generation - Hasewell
5XXX 5th Generation - Broadwell
6XXX 6th Generation - Skylake
7XXX. 7th Generation - Kaby Lake
8XXX/9XXX 8th/9th Generation - Coffee Lake
102XX - 10th Generation - Comet Lake (mobile)
103XX - 10th Generation - Sunny Cove (mobile)
109XX - 10th Generation i9 CPUS - Cascade Lake X
The processors in each generation have a name to them which will be important later. It's not required to memorize them, only the name for which your generation of CPU belongs to. In the following list, "XXX" represents the three-digit number after i3, i5, and i7. i( Processors didn't appear until much later and have four digits after them.
XXX. 1st Generation - Clarkdale
2XXX 2nd Generation - Sandy Bridge
3XXX 3rd Generation - Ivy Bridge
4XXX 4th Generation - Hasewell
5XXX 5th Generation - Broadwell
6XXX 6th Generation - Skylake
7XXX. 7th Generation - Kaby Lake
8XXX/9XXX 8th/9th Generation - Coffee Lake
102XX - 10th Generation - Comet Lake (mobile)
103XX - 10th Generation - Sunny Cove (mobile)
109XX - 10th Generation i9 CPUS - Cascade Lake X
Step 2 - Identifying the Memory
The steps used to determine the processor are he same steps used to determine memory, as the window will show how much RAM your computer has installed in it. Typically MacOS uses 1.5-2 GB, so if your machine has 4 GB of memory total it will have half of that for any remaining running programs. The more RAM your machine has, the quicker the response time and program loading time. Laptops typically have two slots to accommodate sticks of RAM, but desktops typically have two or four. If you would like to add more memory for a faster machine, please skip to chapter under Buying Advice for RAM.
Step 3 - Getting the SMBIOS
If your machine is adequate to run MacOS based on the above information, the next step is to get the SMBIOS or Mac-equivalent ID. Go to www.everymac.com.
Further down there’s the section “Recent Apple Specs:” with four tabs. Click on “By Processor”:
Now the hyperlinks show models by processor with a thumbnail of a Mac model above it. For this example click on the Core i5 processor.
This list shows all of the i5 processors used in Apple desktops and laptops. Scroll down and look to the right for i5-6500. The matching model on the left is iMac 27-inch “Core i5” 3.2 (5K, Late 2015). The page will show a graphic of the product along with a detailed description of its specs. Look at the top and you’ll see a line with tech info. The SMBIOS is located to the middle right:
So the SMBIOS for this particular model, specifically the CPU, is “iMac17,1”. The SMBIOS tag appears with the name of the model, then two numbers separated by a comma without spaces. Later on in Clover when you attempt to load the installer, you will probably need to go into the Options page of Clover and type in that SMBIOS temporarily.
Now let’s compare your own CPU model and find it on the list if it exists. This is typically the first challenge.
Let us assume you have a desktop computer with an i5-4440 CPU. Back to the list on EveryMac.com, the processors are listed by group and by the year they were released. But if you look up and down on the list you will not find an entry for any Mac that used an i5-4440 processor. So how do you know which SMBIOS to choose when the processor you have isn’t listed with a Mac that used the same processor? The easiest way is to probably Google “Hackintosh (processor model)” so your Google search would be “Hackintosh i5-4440”, and more than likely you’ll find a post somewhere by someone who had the same issue and got stuck, and more than likely there will be a solution. The solution may be to use the SMBIOS of the next model down from the one that closely matches yours, but that’s not always the case. The next model down may have different integrated graphics (HD 2500 compared to HD3000) than what your processor has. As long as you plan on using a separate graphics card, that won’t be an issue. If you have a laptop, the same principle applies but there’s better compatibility between mobile processors. When you find the applicable SMBIOS, write it down as you’ll be using it later.
Now let’s compare your own CPU model and find it on the list if it exists. This is typically the first challenge.
Let us assume you have a desktop computer with an i5-4440 CPU. Back to the list on EveryMac.com, the processors are listed by group and by the year they were released. But if you look up and down on the list you will not find an entry for any Mac that used an i5-4440 processor. So how do you know which SMBIOS to choose when the processor you have isn’t listed with a Mac that used the same processor? The easiest way is to probably Google “Hackintosh (processor model)” so your Google search would be “Hackintosh i5-4440”, and more than likely you’ll find a post somewhere by someone who had the same issue and got stuck, and more than likely there will be a solution. The solution may be to use the SMBIOS of the next model down from the one that closely matches yours, but that’s not always the case. The next model down may have different integrated graphics (HD 2500 compared to HD3000) than what your processor has. As long as you plan on using a separate graphics card, that won’t be an issue. If you have a laptop, the same principle applies but there’s better compatibility between mobile processors. When you find the applicable SMBIOS, write it down as you’ll be using it later.
Step 4 - Identifying the BIOS/UEFI
All motherboards have a Basic Input/Output System, commonly known as a BIOS. The BIOS is a series of screens with various controls that let you change the behavior and interaction between the motherboard, operating system and additional harware. Typically you access this by holding down a key on the keyboard after you turn it on but before it gets to the Windows screen. The screens have an older DOS-like look to them instead of a cleaner, fancier look with higher resolution graphics such as Windows or MacOS. It lists any connected hard drives and CD/DVD drives, the date and time, lets you choose the boot order of hard drives if you have more than one, and much more.
The upgrade from this is called Unified Extensive Firmware Interface, or UEFI, and enables more compatibility between the motherboard and other components. UEFI has more controls and options to choose from. Some boards may have a DOS-like appearance but are actually UEFI boards. The way to check is to go to the product page for your computer or motherboard, and investigate the specs (and possibly the user manual) to see if it has a BIOS or if it is a UEFI instead.
The upgrade from this is called Unified Extensive Firmware Interface, or UEFI, and enables more compatibility between the motherboard and other components. UEFI has more controls and options to choose from. Some boards may have a DOS-like appearance but are actually UEFI boards. The way to check is to go to the product page for your computer or motherboard, and investigate the specs (and possibly the user manual) to see if it has a BIOS or if it is a UEFI instead.
Step 5 - Identifying Other Needs
These are on an as-needed basis whether you're using an existing PC desktop or laptop, whether you're using an existing Mac you'd like to replace with a Hackintosh, or starting from the ground up.
For example, you may be using a name-brand HP desktop from Wal Mart or Office Max. Based on the requirements for a Hackintosh, perhaps you can use the case and DVD drive but have to replace everything else. Maybe you'd like to add a video card, but the power supply that came with the PC isn't powerful enough to supply juice to the video card, thus requiring a replacement power supply. If you have a laptop you'd like to convert into a Hackbook and still use Windows, you'll need to replace the DVD drive with a caddy if you don't like the idea of using a slower external USB drive for MacOS.
The first thing you'll want to do is perform a Google search for your computer model. Typically computer models are sold in a series based on the processor type, but the model numbers themselves change based on the configuration. So a Dell model ABC123-555 may consist of an Intel i5-4400, a 1 TB hard drive, and 8 GB of RAM. But a Dell model ABC123-777 may consist of the same Intel CPU, the same hard drive, but 16 GB of RAM. Google the model number as it appears on the case, but add the word "manual" after it. So it should appear using the previous example as:
For example, you may be using a name-brand HP desktop from Wal Mart or Office Max. Based on the requirements for a Hackintosh, perhaps you can use the case and DVD drive but have to replace everything else. Maybe you'd like to add a video card, but the power supply that came with the PC isn't powerful enough to supply juice to the video card, thus requiring a replacement power supply. If you have a laptop you'd like to convert into a Hackbook and still use Windows, you'll need to replace the DVD drive with a caddy if you don't like the idea of using a slower external USB drive for MacOS.
The first thing you'll want to do is perform a Google search for your computer model. Typically computer models are sold in a series based on the processor type, but the model numbers themselves change based on the configuration. So a Dell model ABC123-555 may consist of an Intel i5-4400, a 1 TB hard drive, and 8 GB of RAM. But a Dell model ABC123-777 may consist of the same Intel CPU, the same hard drive, but 16 GB of RAM. Google the model number as it appears on the case, but add the word "manual" after it. So it should appear using the previous example as:
Dell ABC123-555 manual
Now you'll want to get the user manual and possibly the service manual. The user manual will show you how to operate it, but perhaps not much else. What we want to find is the list of other configurations the computer was sold as so that we can see what other CPUs came with it and other details. If the user manual doesn't show it, the service manual should. The service manual will also go in depth regarding how to disassemble the PC and is essential to laptop users who choose to upgrade their processor themselves.
Note: Owners of Toshiba laptops and netbooks will have more difficulty finding any available service manuals for their computers. Toshiba wants to make this information proprietary, however it is possible to find out the necessary upgrade information. Don't forget to look up helpful information on www.tomshardware.com.
Note: Owners of Toshiba laptops and netbooks will have more difficulty finding any available service manuals for their computers. Toshiba wants to make this information proprietary, however it is possible to find out the necessary upgrade information. Don't forget to look up helpful information on www.tomshardware.com.
"I need a compatible CPU."
DESKTOP & LAPTOP REQUIREMENTS: Thermal paste
Either manual should show what compatible CPUs your computer was sold with. If the manual shows nothing, you may also be able to look on the motherboard itself to identify it. Most computer manufacturers have motherboards that have the board's model number printed on the board itself. A simple google search for that may also provide answers as to what compatible CPUs can be used.
Chances are that if your computer isn't fairly new, your best bet on finding a compatible CPU is on eBay. Let's assume one of the compatible processors is an i5-4440. Before you start hunting, look up the information on Wikipedia. You can go on Google or similar search engine, type in "i5-4440", press enter and click on the Wikipedia link for i5 processors.
DESKTOP & LAPTOP REQUIREMENTS: Thermal paste
Either manual should show what compatible CPUs your computer was sold with. If the manual shows nothing, you may also be able to look on the motherboard itself to identify it. Most computer manufacturers have motherboards that have the board's model number printed on the board itself. A simple google search for that may also provide answers as to what compatible CPUs can be used.
Chances are that if your computer isn't fairly new, your best bet on finding a compatible CPU is on eBay. Let's assume one of the compatible processors is an i5-4440. Before you start hunting, look up the information on Wikipedia. You can go on Google or similar search engine, type in "i5-4440", press enter and click on the Wikipedia link for i5 processors.
This series has HD 4600 graphics with the main difference being the CPU speed from 3 GHz to 3.5 GHz. If you wanted a faster speed than 3.1 GHz from the 4440 and your computer's board supports it (such as the i5-4690), simply start an eBay search for that instead.
Note: The "K" after the CPU model for Intel processors means that the CPU is unlocked. Unlocked processors can have their voltages changed and parameters altered to speed up or "overclock" them, making them faster than their advertised speed. This isn't required for MacOS, but can boost gaming performance on the Windows side. They also require motherboards with more BIOS options that enable this to be tapped into, which may mean a separate purchase is needed. Use with caution.
It's critical that laptop users pay attention to the GPU model, ensuring that the CPU has Intel HD 3000 graphics or better.
Note: The "K" after the CPU model for Intel processors means that the CPU is unlocked. Unlocked processors can have their voltages changed and parameters altered to speed up or "overclock" them, making them faster than their advertised speed. This isn't required for MacOS, but can boost gaming performance on the Windows side. They also require motherboards with more BIOS options that enable this to be tapped into, which may mean a separate purchase is needed. Use with caution.
It's critical that laptop users pay attention to the GPU model, ensuring that the CPU has Intel HD 3000 graphics or better.
"I want/need a video card."
DESKTOP REQUIREMENTS: Available PCIe slot, possible new power supply
A video card is beneficial for taking the graphics workload off of the processor, but also better for gaming on the PC side. If you plan on doing video editing with Final Cut Pro X, a graphics card is actually required. See the Sapphire and AMD cards for the page of minimum graphic requirements.
Older cards and monitors have VGA ports, but VGA is no longer supported with MacOS. Note that DVi, HDMI, and DisplayPort connectors are supported, and most video cards these days have at least one or more of a DVI port (older), and HDMI port (newer), with DisplayPort being the latest connector type. As long as your monitor has one of those three ports, and the desired video card (or laptop) has the same port, you're in luck.
If you plan on browsing the internet, using email, playing light games and such; you can get away with using your Intel's built-in graphics. If you want something more powerful and able to handle future Mac OS releases, you can pick up a small-sized graphics card. The card will fit on your board's PCIe slot and get power from that slot to run. For smoother gaming and video, you can get a mid-range to high-end graphics card for around $100 and up which are physically larger and have one or more large fans to cool itself. These cards also require additional juice that your motherboard's PCIe slot cannot provide, and therefore require additional juice from the computer's power supply.
Basically if you want to add a powerful graphics card, more than likely you'll need to purchase a new power supply; one that can handle the power requirements of the video card you wish to use. The connectors on the cards themselves have a 6-pin or 8-pin connector, or a combination of both. Ensure the power supply you purchase has the proper number of supplemental connectors and power rating (in wattage) to provide enough juice to the card. Please be aware that power supplies have a standard size known as ATX, and that consumer PCs sometimes have smaller power supplies that fit in the case but do not have additional connections for additional peripherals.
For a current list of compatible cards, check out the Catalina GPU Buyer's Guide.
DESKTOP REQUIREMENTS: Available PCIe slot, possible new power supply
A video card is beneficial for taking the graphics workload off of the processor, but also better for gaming on the PC side. If you plan on doing video editing with Final Cut Pro X, a graphics card is actually required. See the Sapphire and AMD cards for the page of minimum graphic requirements.
Older cards and monitors have VGA ports, but VGA is no longer supported with MacOS. Note that DVi, HDMI, and DisplayPort connectors are supported, and most video cards these days have at least one or more of a DVI port (older), and HDMI port (newer), with DisplayPort being the latest connector type. As long as your monitor has one of those three ports, and the desired video card (or laptop) has the same port, you're in luck.
If you plan on browsing the internet, using email, playing light games and such; you can get away with using your Intel's built-in graphics. If you want something more powerful and able to handle future Mac OS releases, you can pick up a small-sized graphics card. The card will fit on your board's PCIe slot and get power from that slot to run. For smoother gaming and video, you can get a mid-range to high-end graphics card for around $100 and up which are physically larger and have one or more large fans to cool itself. These cards also require additional juice that your motherboard's PCIe slot cannot provide, and therefore require additional juice from the computer's power supply.
Basically if you want to add a powerful graphics card, more than likely you'll need to purchase a new power supply; one that can handle the power requirements of the video card you wish to use. The connectors on the cards themselves have a 6-pin or 8-pin connector, or a combination of both. Ensure the power supply you purchase has the proper number of supplemental connectors and power rating (in wattage) to provide enough juice to the card. Please be aware that power supplies have a standard size known as ATX, and that consumer PCs sometimes have smaller power supplies that fit in the case but do not have additional connections for additional peripherals.
For a current list of compatible cards, check out the Catalina GPU Buyer's Guide.
"I need more memory"
DESKTOP AND LAPTOP REQUIREMENTS: Free RAM slots or willingness to replace existing RAM
The more memory you have, the more programs you can run simultaneously and the more responsive your computer will be. Even boot times for older computers decrease significant resulting in shorter wait times to get to the desktop. Typically store-bought computers may give you enough RAM to accommodate the operating system and a few programs, but don't raise the ceiling for much else.
The user manual or product page for your computer will tell you what type of memory your system uses. From oldest to newest the RAM will be DDR2, DDR3, or DDR4. The type of RAM cannot be changed from one to another. You have to purchase a whole new board or system. Any kind is Hackintosh-compatible, but there is more to this explained in the next chapter.
Desktop computers will have at least two RAM slots on the board, and at least one stick of RAM occupying one of those slots. Note that PCs run better when RAM is installed in matching pairs. Some desktops have four slots as well. If you wanted to upgrade your desktop computer to 16 GB of RAM you could install one 16 GB stick, two 8 GB sticks, or four 4 GB sticks. Here's a photo of two 8 GB sticks (modules) of RAM, front and back:
DESKTOP AND LAPTOP REQUIREMENTS: Free RAM slots or willingness to replace existing RAM
The more memory you have, the more programs you can run simultaneously and the more responsive your computer will be. Even boot times for older computers decrease significant resulting in shorter wait times to get to the desktop. Typically store-bought computers may give you enough RAM to accommodate the operating system and a few programs, but don't raise the ceiling for much else.
The user manual or product page for your computer will tell you what type of memory your system uses. From oldest to newest the RAM will be DDR2, DDR3, or DDR4. The type of RAM cannot be changed from one to another. You have to purchase a whole new board or system. Any kind is Hackintosh-compatible, but there is more to this explained in the next chapter.
Desktop computers will have at least two RAM slots on the board, and at least one stick of RAM occupying one of those slots. Note that PCs run better when RAM is installed in matching pairs. Some desktops have four slots as well. If you wanted to upgrade your desktop computer to 16 GB of RAM you could install one 16 GB stick, two 8 GB sticks, or four 4 GB sticks. Here's a photo of two 8 GB sticks (modules) of RAM, front and back:
The top module also has "DDR4" labeled on it.
All computers have limits as to the maximum amount of memory that can be installed. Typically 8 GB is more than enough, while others are limited at 32 or 64 GB total, which is overkill in most cases.
Laptop RAM is a bit different. Their physical size is smaller than desktop RAM, and some laptops limit this. Most laptops have two slots for two modules. If the installed module is 4 GB and you added an 8 GB stick you'd have 12 GB but not running at optimal speed, compared to if you added a matching 4 GB stick. Some laptops also have at least one RAM module soldered to the motherboard that cannot be removed, limiting you to adding or replacing a second module. Check your laptop's user/service manual for the exact configuration. You don't want to buy a pair only to discover that your laptop only takes one extra stick.
A search for "SODIMM" on will list laptop RAM available by module and matching pairs.
All computers have limits as to the maximum amount of memory that can be installed. Typically 8 GB is more than enough, while others are limited at 32 or 64 GB total, which is overkill in most cases.
Laptop RAM is a bit different. Their physical size is smaller than desktop RAM, and some laptops limit this. Most laptops have two slots for two modules. If the installed module is 4 GB and you added an 8 GB stick you'd have 12 GB but not running at optimal speed, compared to if you added a matching 4 GB stick. Some laptops also have at least one RAM module soldered to the motherboard that cannot be removed, limiting you to adding or replacing a second module. Check your laptop's user/service manual for the exact configuration. You don't want to buy a pair only to discover that your laptop only takes one extra stick.
A search for "SODIMM" on will list laptop RAM available by module and matching pairs.
"I require an extra hard drive."
DESKTOP REQUIREMENTS: Additional space in case, SATA cable, available SATA power connector
LAPTOP OPTIONS: Removable DVD drive, replacement DVD caddy
Typical desktop computers are large enough to allow additional drives to be installed, so you can have your existing drive for Windows and a separate drive for MacOS. Consumer PCs sold by Dell, HP/Compaq, and others may give you only a small amount of connectors to power up the drive(s) in the computer itself; the connectors being a SATA cable for data, and a SATA connector for power from the power supply. As long as your existing computer has both a SATA connector on the motherboard and an available SATA connector on one of the cables from the power supply, you're ahead of the game. Otherwise you'll have to boot MacOS to an external USB hard drive which aren't as quick as internal hard drives.
On a technical note that will be covered in the next chapter, motherboards are designated by different chipsets. The chipsets determine the architecture regarding the maximum number of USB devices and internal drives that can be connected, the maximum bus speed between devices and more. That's not to say that you can't purchase a used, older board and quickly max things out. But the older the technology, the sooner that technology will be overshadowed by something newer and faster. You can get an older board with a limited number of USB 3.0 devices that can be connect, but still have USB 3.0 peripherals that can connect to USB 2.0 ports and operate at a slightly slower speed.
SATA cables can be had very cheap, typically under $5, and have identical ends: one end goes to the back of the drive and the other goes to a free SATA port on the motherboard or SATA PCIe card:
DESKTOP REQUIREMENTS: Additional space in case, SATA cable, available SATA power connector
LAPTOP OPTIONS: Removable DVD drive, replacement DVD caddy
Typical desktop computers are large enough to allow additional drives to be installed, so you can have your existing drive for Windows and a separate drive for MacOS. Consumer PCs sold by Dell, HP/Compaq, and others may give you only a small amount of connectors to power up the drive(s) in the computer itself; the connectors being a SATA cable for data, and a SATA connector for power from the power supply. As long as your existing computer has both a SATA connector on the motherboard and an available SATA connector on one of the cables from the power supply, you're ahead of the game. Otherwise you'll have to boot MacOS to an external USB hard drive which aren't as quick as internal hard drives.
On a technical note that will be covered in the next chapter, motherboards are designated by different chipsets. The chipsets determine the architecture regarding the maximum number of USB devices and internal drives that can be connected, the maximum bus speed between devices and more. That's not to say that you can't purchase a used, older board and quickly max things out. But the older the technology, the sooner that technology will be overshadowed by something newer and faster. You can get an older board with a limited number of USB 3.0 devices that can be connect, but still have USB 3.0 peripherals that can connect to USB 2.0 ports and operate at a slightly slower speed.
SATA cables can be had very cheap, typically under $5, and have identical ends: one end goes to the back of the drive and the other goes to a free SATA port on the motherboard or SATA PCIe card:
The SATA connector on a power supply cord (shown below) are permanently connected to the power supply cables. The drive in the background on the right shows the SATA power on the left which is wider than the SATA data connector on the right. You can also see how each one has a notch in them so they can only be attached one way.
When the power and data cables are connected it will look like this:
Standard hard drives come in two sizes: 3.5" and 2.5" (referring to its width) while solid state drives are 2.5". Both types have the same type of SATA connectors for power and data, but some laptops may have a proprietary connector for a tighter fit. Many consumer desktops don't have a fitting adapter for a 2.5" drive, so an additional purchase is suggested if using any 2.5" drive.